Several years ago while I was choosing a bag of grapes at my local grocery store, the produce manager saw me and directed my attention to his display of red Scarlatta grapes. He told me they were just in—first of the new crop California grapes—and were especially good.
I was surprised—I had always treated grapes as season-less. Like broccoli, grapes of pretty good quality are almost always available. But of course they do have a season. I was aware that the harvest for wine grapes was in the fall (I was even working in Provence one year during the harvest!). But as much as I think about seasonal eating, I'm embarrassed to admit that I had never really thought about table grapes being a fall item.
The grapes I took home that day were—just as the produce manager had said—particularly good. I still eat grapes year round (the miracle of shipping…), but ever since that moment in the produce aisle, I make note of when the California crop begins to hit the stores. This is usually sometime in September. (Sadly, they disappear in late December/early January.) These grapes are always worth seeking out.
Unsurprisingly, grapes are good partners for other foods that share their season: Figs…and nuts (most of which are harvested in the fall)... Winter squashes… Apples and pears... Brussels sprouts, cabbage and chicories (endive, radicchio). If you are in the habit of just purchasing grapes for snacking…or adding to your holiday fruit and cheese platters…you might consider branching out a bit by adding them to some of your fall salads.
This year, right when the new crop first began to appear, I prepared a salad that featured grapes and some of these other autumn foods (celery, pepitas, spinach and radicchio) for one of my pop up dinners.
I loved the salad so much I have made it several times for myself since. And I took it as my contribution to Thanksgiving dinner this year. I will probably continue to make it throughout the cold months—even after the California crop has disappeared for the year. If you are craving something fresh, crunchy, and juicy to counterbalance all the rich fare of the current season, this salad will be just the thing.
Autumn Salad with Grapes, Celery, Blue Cheese & Candied Pepitas
2 oz. stemmed baby spinach
4 oz. trimmed Little Gem (see notes) lettuce, cut crosswise in 1-inch strips, or torn into bite-sized pieces
1 1/2 oz. cored Radicchio, cut crosswise in 1/2-inch strips, or torn into bite-sized pieces
2/3 lb. red grapes, halved (about 2 cups)
4 oz. trimmed celery, sliced thinly (1/8-inch) on a slight diagonal (about 1 cup)
3 1/2 oz. Gorgonzola Piccante, Roquefort, or other crumbly, sharp blue
Salt & freshly ground pepper
1/2 c. Cider-Honey Vinaigrette
1/3 c. Candied Pepitas
Place the first 5 ingredients in a large bowl. Add half to three quarters of the blue cheese. Season with salt and pepper. Drizzle in 1/4 to 1/3 cup of the vinaigrette and toss well. Mound the salad on a large platter or on individual plates. Crumble the remaining blue cheese over. Drizzle with more vinaigrette, if you like. Scatter the pepitas over all.
Makes 4 large salads or 6 to 8 side salads.
Note: Little Gem lettuce is a cross between Romaine and Bibb. It has more crunch than Bibb...and is more tender than Romaine. If you are not able to find it, you may use Artisan Romaine Hearts, or plain Romaine hearts.
Cider-Honey Vinaigrette
1/4 c. (60 g.) apple cider vinegar
2 T. (42 g.) honey
1 T. (14 g.) Dijon mustard
5/8 t. kosher salt
5 T. olive oil
5 T. canola oil (or use olive oil)
Place the first four ingredients in a small bowl. Whisk until smooth. Drizzle in the oils, whisking constantly to form an emulsion. Taste and correct the seasoning with salt and more vinegar or oil as necessary. The vinaigrette should be tangy and sweet.
Makes a generous cup. This is more than you need for the salad, but the vinaigrette keeps well in a jar in the fridge and is wonderful on salads featuring autumn fruits and/or roasted winter squash.
Candied Pepitas
1 T. sugar
1/4 t. kosher salt
Pinch of cayenne (to taste)
2 t. unsalted butter
1/2 c. raw pumpkin seeds
1 t. honey
Combine the sugar, salt and cayenne in a small ramekin and set aside. Spray a plate or small sheet pan with pan spray (or brush lightly with oil). Set aside.
In a small non-stick sauté pan set over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the pumpkin seeds and toss to coat. Sprinkle the sugar mixture over the pepitas and toss to coat. Continue to cook, stirring and tossing until the sugar has melted and the pumpkin seeds are popping a bit and are lightly colored. Remove the pan from the heat. Wait 30 seconds. Drizzle in the honey and toss to coat.
Spread the candied pepitas out on the prepared plate/pan and let cool—stirring occasionally as they cool so that they will be separate rather than clumpy.
Store the candied pepitas in an airtight container at room temperature.