In my previous risotto posts I have made a point of
discussing how to achieve differences in flavor and texture by how and when you
choose to add the vegetable garnish (cooked vs. raw…at the beginning, middle or
end…). But stirring a vegetable into a
risotto isn’t the only way to alter the way in which the dish is
perceived. Just as you can serve risotto topped with a portion of cooked meat or fish, you can also serve a risotto with
an attractive portion of a cooked vegetable—making it so that one vegetable
becomes the star of the show, rather than just one of many supporting players.
I bring all of this up for a couple of reasons. The first is that sometimes I like to eat
risotto all by itself. It makes a
wonderful starchy side dish…but it is special enough on its own that sometimes
that’s how I want to enjoy it: either as a first course for a formal dinner…or
as the entrée for a simple and informal supper.
In each of these cases, I always do everything I can to make my bowl of
risotto look like something other than a mound of hot breakfast cereal. I adorn it with a sprig of herbs…some nicely
shaved Parmesan…or some other small garnish. And this approach is just fine, but sometimes
you want something more. Topping the
finished risotto with a separately cooked—and attractively
arranged—complimentary vegetable is a great way to get that ‘something more.’
I have to admit though that sometimes creating a
beautiful plate isn’t at the top of my list for a weeknight meal (neatly and cleanly plated
is usually more than sufficient) and I am much more likely to go to this extra
step for a client’s dinner. However,
sometimes at my own table find that I have a special and beautiful vegetable
that I want to highlight a bit…so it doesn’t get lost in the crowd. Examples include a few spears of fresh
asparagus, just picked from a friend’s field…local fava beans (a rarity indeed
in my region)…morel mushrooms that are so expensive I can only justify purchasing
a few…etc. This is a great time to make
a risotto with complimentary flavors to act as a bed/background for your
perfectly cooked, special item…which then gets perched right on top for all to
see.
I used this approach recently to highlight the beautiful
oyster mushrooms that a new purveyor has been bringing to the winter farmer’s
market. I used to consider oyster
mushrooms a run-of-the-mill grocery store item.
Sadly they have disappeared from my local stores. Since they are a favorite of mine I was excited
when I found out that they would be coming to my farmers’ market…and even more
excited when I saw the wide variety on display: Blue oyster, Pearl oyster, Elm
oyster, etc. This winter I have enjoyed
these mushrooms in pastas…and on pizzas…and recently on top of this leek and
prosciutto risotto.
I made this risotto
just because I wanted to show off these wonderful mushrooms. I could of course have just stirred them into
the risotto—and it would have been delicious.
But it wouldn’t have been nearly as beautiful—or as much of a
celebration of this wonderful ingredient.
If you are new to risottos…or sautéing mushrooms…before
you begin check out some of my previous posts on how to make risotto (where I go into the details of the process and the goal) and on how to sauté mushrooms. And if you don’t have access
to oyster mushrooms, this dish will still be delicious with whatever mushrooms
you are able to find—the sweet leeks and salty prosciutto are a wonderful backdrop
for the savory mushrooms.
Finally, speaking of “topping” risotto with something
special, if you have never formed some leftover risotto into a little cake,
fried it in butter,
and topped it with a softly cooked egg (poached or fried), you are missing
out. Make sure that you make some extra
risotto, just so you can have this glorious concoction for lunch the next day. After tasting it, you will probably find yourself making extra risotto on purpose..
Leek & Prosciutto Risotto with Sautéed Oyster Mushrooms
2 to 3 large leeks, white and pale green parts only
3 T. unsalted butter
1 large or 2 small shallots (about 2 to 3 oz.), finely
diced
2 t. minced thyme (optional)
1 1/2 c. Arborio or Carnaroli rice
1/2 to 2/3 c. dry white wine
About 6 c. hot chicken stock
3 oz. thinly sliced prosciutto (about 6 slices), cut
crosswise in 1/4-inch strips
2 T. butter
1/2 to 2/3 c. finely
grated Parmesan
Salt & Pepper, to taste
8 to 10 oz. (trimmed of tough portions of the stems and weighed after trimming) oyster mushrooms, larger
ones torn in half (see note)
Olive oil
2 T. butter
1 1/2 to 2 T. minced Italian flat leaf parsley
Prepare the leeks: Trim away the root and the dark
green portion of the leeks. Cut the
white and pale green portion in half lengthwise. Slice each half thinly crosswise (about 1/4-inch
thick). You should have 3 1/2 to 4 cups
of leeks. Rinse the leeks well in
several changes of water to make sure that they are entirely free of soil and
sand.
Heat the butter in a heavy medium saucepan (preferably
one that is wider than it is deep) over medium heat. Add the leeks along with the shallots and
thyme and sweat until the leeks have wilted and the shallots are soft—about 10
to 15 minutes. Add another tablespoon of
butter if the leeks seem dry as they cook.
Add the rice and continue to cook for a minute or two
until the rice is well coated with the butter and is sizzling a bit. Add the wine and cook until the pan is nearly
dry. Begin to add the stock. Add enough so that the stock is at the same
level as the rice in the pan—the rice should move freely, but not be ‘swimming’
in the liquid. Adjust the heat so that
the rice cooks at a slow simmer. Stir
occasionally and regularly (this will enhance the creaminess of the final
risotto.) When the pan is nearly dry, add more stock and season lightly with
salt & pepper. Continue to stir and
cook the rice, adding more stock and seasoning lightly as each addition is
absorbed.
While the risotto cooks, sauté the mushrooms: As always, when sautéing mushrooms, do not
over-crowd the pan. If necessary, sauté
in batches. Heat a non-stick sauté pan
over high heat. Add a thin film of oil
to the pan. You should see a wisp of
smoke if the pan is hot enough. Add the
butter and the mushrooms. Cook, shaking the pan occasionally, until the
mushrooms are browned, tender and any liquid that they have given off has
evaporated. Season with salt and
pepper. If sautéing in batches, transfer
the mushrooms to a plate and repeat with the next batch. When all of the mushrooms have been sautéed,
return all of the mushroom to the pan and heat through. Add a splash of the stock to the pan (or use
water or white wine if you have used all of the stock for the risotto) and
allow it to reduce around the mushrooms.
Toss in the parsley. Taste and
correct the seasoning with salt and pepper.
Set aside until the risotto is done.
Reheat briefly if necessary before serving.
When the rice is al dente—about 18 to 20 minutes from
the first addition of stock, stir in the prosciutto. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter,
cheese and parsley….and adding more stock as necessary to achieve a fluid
consistency.
Taste and correct the seasoning and serve immediately topped with
the wild mushrooms. Serves 4 as an entrée
Notes:
- If you are unable to find oyster mushrooms, any favorite mushroom (crimini, white button, shiitake, chanterelles, etc.) will work. For mushrooms other than oysters, trim and slice 1/4-inch thick before sautéing.
- Pack the left over risotto into an oiled dish, spreading about 3/4-inch thick. Let cool and then cover with plastic wrap and store in the fridge. Fry the cold risotto in a cast iron (or other nonstick skillet): melt some butter over moderate heat. Cut a portion of the cold risotto and carefully lift it out of dish with a wide spatula. Place it in the sizzling butter with the top side down. The top will be dryer than the bottom (which will be a bit gooey) and will be less likely to stick or fall apart. When the first side is golden brown and crispy, carefully flip the cake and brown the second side. Serve topped with a poached or fried egg.
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