I don’t think I tasted a parsnip until I was
well into adulthood. This is not to say
I would have tasted them (or liked them) had I been served some when I was a
child (as I have mentioned many times, I was an extremely picky eater). For some reason they just never crossed my
path. I think that many Americans would
tell a similar story…and that almost as many American adults would say they had
still not tasted them.
Even if I didn’t know of this lack of
exposure from my cooking classes, the sad, wax-covered (an attempt to preserve
moisture for an overly long stay in the produce aisle) parsnips available in
many grocery stores would tell the tale. But, if the reaction of the people who have
attended my classes is any indication, most people will like them when given
the chance. If you have never sampled a
parsnip…or if you have only had the old, tired, waxed ones...the parsnip soup I
am posting today would be a great starting place to experience just how
delicious a parsnip can be.
It is a surprise to me that parsnips aren’t
more widely served on American tables.
One of the unfortunate things about our national palate is that
Americans gravitate towards sweet flavors…even in savory dishes. This proclivity should work in the favor of
parsnips…they are quite sweet. So sweet
in fact that I find they need a bit of tempering from complimentary flavors. They go beautifully with pungent turnips and
rutabagas (roasted together…baked in a gratin…folded into a purée…). And they are fantastic with the slightly
bitter and musty flavor of the walnut and sage garnish for this soup.
The recipe for this soup is from Alice
Waters’ book The Art of Simple Food II.
As is almost always the case, the balance of flavors in her recipe is
just about perfect. I have changed it in
only one respect: Waters serves it as a
chunky vegetable soup. I like to purée
it (suggested as a variation in the original recipe). Parsnips purée into an incredibly velvety
soup—and the drizzle of the coarse walnut-sage pesto is beautiful against the
off white color of the soup.
Furthermore, because parsnips aren’t the most popular vegetables on the produce aisle, sometimes the ones I have access to (even though they haven’t been waxed) have hard cores that resist cooking—even after the exterior has been completely broken down by the cooking process. Puréeing the soup…and then quickly straining it…is a great way to deal with any unyielding, fibrous bits.
To get good parsnips, go to a grocery store
that has a reputation for carrying local produce…or one that sells an abundant
variety. Whole Foods, for example,
almost always has them during the cooler months. If you have a winter farmers' market in your
area, one of the growers will probably have them. As with most fresh vegetables, choose
specimens that are heavy for their size (this means they will still be full of
moisture) and as unblemished as possible.
And, if it isn’t already clear from my comments, avoid the ones in the
grocery story that have been waxed. You
will be disappointed and possibly even disinclined to give them a second chance…which
would be a shame.
On a final technical note, when you make this
soup, use the amounts of liquid given in the recipe as a guideline. As with all puréed soups, err on the side of
too little liquid while the soup is cooking (if you have too much, the soup
might be too thin after puréeing). Add
just enough liquid so that the vegetables are moving freely and a bit loosely
in the stock/water. You can always add
more (and the recipe indicates that you probably will) when you actually purée
the soup. While puréeing, add just
enough liquid (water or stock) to allow the soup to move freely in the blender. After you add the cream, adjust the thickness
again (with water or stock). I mention
all of this because it is impossible to give an exactly correct amount of
liquid in a recipe. I have no way of
knowing how much liquid will evaporate during the cooking process (you may cook
at a higher or lower level of heat…your pot may be wider or narrower than mine…etc.). Also, we may have different ideas of what
constitutes a nice texture. In my opinion, a puréed soup should be on the thin
side… Sippable, with a viscosity that is just slightly thicker than heavy cream, is just about perfect.
Cream of Parsnip Soup with Sage & Walnuts
3 to 4 T. unsalted butter
4 large shallots (about 5 to 6 oz.), sliced
1 large leek—white & pale green parts
only—trimmed, halved lengthwise, sliced (to obtain 1 to 1 1/4 cups) and rinsed
well in several changes of water
1 sage sprig
Salt
1 1/2 lbs. parsnips, trimmed, peeled and cut into
1/4-inch half moons
4 cups chicken (or vegetable) stock
3 1/2 T. olive oil, divided—plus more as desired
12 to 15 sage leaves
1/2 cup walnuts, toasted and chopped medium fine
Salt & pepper
1 large or 2 small cloves of garlic
Water as needed (about 2 cups)
2/3 cup heavy cream
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| Mise en place tray for class... |
In a heavy soup pot set over medium heat, melt 3 T. of
the butter. Add the shallots and cook,
stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent—about 10 minutes. Add the leeks, the sprig of sage and a good
pinch of salt. If the pan seems dry, add
the remaining tablespoon of butter.
Continue to cook until the leeks begin to collapse—about 4 to 5
minutes. Add the parsnips and cook,
stirring occasionally, until the parsnips have begun to soften on the
surfaces—about 5 to 7 minutes.
Pour in
the stock. Raise the heat, bring to a
boil, then immediately reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until the parsnips
are tender—about 12 to 15 minutes.
While the soup cooks, heat 1 1/2 tablespoons of olive
oil in a small sauté pan. Add the sage
leaves and cook until they have crisped and turned translucent.
Remove the pan from the heat and add the
walnuts and stir to coat.
Season with
salt and pepper. Place the garlic in a
mortar and pestle and pound until smooth.
Pound in a pinch of salt. Pour in
the sage and walnut mixture, along with another 2 tablespoons of oil. Pound lightly. Taste and correct the seasoning with salt. Add more olive oil to achieve a consistency
that pleases you. Set aside while you
purée the soup.
When the parsnips are tender, remove the sage
sprig. Purée the soup. If the soup is too thick to move freely in
the blender, add a bit of water. Strain
the soup into a clean pot; add the cream and heat through, adding more water if
the soup is too thick. Taste and correct
the seasoning with salt. Serve with a
spoonful of the sage and walnuts drizzled and dolloped over the surface of the soup.
Makes a scant 2 quarts soup.
(Recipe adapted from The Art of Simple Food II
by Alice Waters)
Delicious!!!
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