I always take a stack of food magazines with me
when I travel. By the time my vacation
rolls around I'm almost always behind in my reading...but even if I weren't,
cooking magazines provide the perfect amount of activity when I know there will be many short—or long—moments
of down time ahead of me. If I am
somewhere that offers me the opportunity to cook, they also provide instant
inspiration. Almost without fail I return
home with a dog-eared and post-it note tagged stack...and loads of new ideas.
Because some of the best meals of my life have been at the table of my friend Bonnie...and her table is imbued with the food traditions of Sweden and Denmark...I always stop and take a closer look at articles about Scandinavian food. In the June issue of Food & Wine this year there was a travel article (with recipes, of course) about Stockholm. A recipe for a substantial salad of vegetables topped with flaked hot smoked salmon particularly caught my eye. It popped into my mind as I was considering what to make for dinner at the end of my first full day back home.
Because some of the best meals of my life have been at the table of my friend Bonnie...and her table is imbued with the food traditions of Sweden and Denmark...I always stop and take a closer look at articles about Scandinavian food. In the June issue of Food & Wine this year there was a travel article (with recipes, of course) about Stockholm. A recipe for a substantial salad of vegetables topped with flaked hot smoked salmon particularly caught my eye. It popped into my mind as I was considering what to make for dinner at the end of my first full day back home.
The components of my salad were similar...but not
identical... to the original. I didn't
have any hot smoked salmon...but I did have some nice canned, olive oil packed
tuna (from Trader Joe's...not the bank breaking stuff from Dean &DeLuca). I added some poached fingerling
potatoes to the green beans and cherry tomatoes called for in the
original. And I used a mix of arugula
and butter lettuce for my greens. The
recipe in the magazine used a mix of red and green Bibb...and also included a
few shaved radishes. I thought the
peppery arugula would add the right note in place of those radishes...and it
did.
The thing about the Food & Wine salad that
seemed the most unusual—and made me stop longer for an even closer look—was the
fried caper vinaigrette. I love fried
capers...and I loved the idea of using the oil used to fry them as part of the
vinaigrette. The vinaigrette in the
recipe was a bit more acidic than the vinaigrettes I usually favor...but with
the potatoes and fish and soft butter lettuce, it was just the thing.
We liked the salad so much that I made it again a
few days later....this time with slow-roasted salmon. And it was this version that I really preferred.
The tuna was good...and I would make it again...but the salmon version was
outstanding. If you have never slow
roasted salmon, check out my post from a few years ago. It is so easy. It's a perfect method for salmon destined for
a salad....and a perfect way to prepare fish in the summer when you don't want
to heat up your kitchen with a super hot oven.
I returned from my summer vacation well
rested...and so inspired from my rambles through my reading material. I'm sure I will never get around to making all
the things that caught my eye. But I
hope that they will at least continue to percolate around in my mind and
manifest themselves in my cooking—and here on my blog—during the months to come
and until my next opportunity to get away to relax and recharge.
Potato, Tomato & Green Bean Salad with a
Caper Vinaigrette, Dill & Slow Roasted Salmon
Caper Vinaigrette, Dill & Slow Roasted Salmon
6 oz. Salmon filet (with or without skin)
Olive oil
Salt & Pepper
Several sprigs of dill
1/2 lb. fingerling potatoes
1/2 t. cider or sherry vinegar
1/4 of a small red onion, very thinly
sliced/shaved (about 1/4 c.)
5 to 6 oz. green beans, trimmed and cut into 2- to
3-inch lengths
5 oz. mixed cherry tomatoes
2 T. coarsely chopped dill, plus extra picked dill
for garnish
2 T. minced Italian flat leaf parsley
Caper vinaigrette
1 1/2 c. bite sized pieces Bibb/butter lettuce (55
grams), rinsed and spun dry
1 1/2 c. stemmed arugula (30 grams), rinsed and
spun dry
Fried capers
Place the salmon in an oiled baking dish (skin side down) and season with salt and pepper. If you like, scatter a few sprigs of dill over the salmon. Place in a 275° oven and bake until an instant read thermometer reads 120°—about 30 to 40 minutes. Remove and set aside until ready to serve the salad.
While the salmon roasts, scrub the potatoes and
place in a saucepan. Cover with cold
water. Salt the water and bring to a
simmer. Cover and simmer gently until
tender to the tip of a knife—about 15 to 20 minutes. Drain.
When cool enough to handle (but still warm), halve lengthwise. If the skins are tough, pull them off (if
they are tough, this will be easily accomplished). Place the potatoes in a large bowl and
drizzle with the cider or sherry vinegar and season with salt. Set aside.
While the potatoes cook, rinse the onions under
cold running water—or soak in a small bowl of ice water for five minutes and
drain. Spread on a double thickness of
paper towels and blot dry.
Blanch the beans in a pot of boiling salted water
until cooked to your liking—4 to 7 minutes.
Drain and spread on towels to cool.
(You may cook the beans in a separate pot, but I found it works just as
well to drain the potatoes and use the pot the potatoes were cooked in—the beans
will easily cook and cool in the amount of time it takes to cool and peel the
potatoes.)
Halve or quarter the cherry tomatoes (depending on
their size). Leave them cut side up on
the cutting board (or transfer to a plate) and season well with salt and
pepper. Let sit while you are pulling
together all of the ingredients.
When ready to serve, add the beans, red onions, cherry tomatoes and herbs to the bowl with the potatoes. Season with salt & pepper and drizzle in about 2/3 of the vinaigrette. Toss to coat all the vegetables well. Add the greens, season and toss again. If the salad seems dry, add more of the vinaigrette.
Mound the salad on a platter or individual serving
plates. Flake the salmon into large
chunks and arrange over the salad (discarding the skin if the salmon was cooked
on the skin). Scatter the capers and a few dill sprigs over the salad and
serve.
Serves 2 as an entrée. The recipe for the salad and vinaigrette are
both easily multiplied to serve more.
Variations:
- Replace the salmon with a 5 oz. can of olive oil packed, solid white tuna.
- Add a hard- or medium-cooked egg or two (halved or quartered) for a more substantial salad
Caper Vinaigrette
3 to 4 T. olive oil
2 T. capers, rinsed and blotted dry
A scant 2 T. sherry vinegar
1/2 t. Dijon Mustard
Salt & Freshly ground pepper
Place 3 T. of olive oil in a small sauté or sauce
pan and set over moderate heat. When the
oil is warm, add the capers. They will
begin to sizzle and pop as the oil continues to heat up. Allow them to sizzle until they open and
begin to darken and crisp—about 2 to 3 minutes from when they first begin to
actively sizzle.
Strain the oil into a heat proof container and let
cool. Spread the capers on some paper
towels and set aside.
Place the sherry vinegar, mustard and a couple of
good pinches of salt in a small bowl.
Whisk until smooth. Measure the cooled oil and add more olive oil to make 3 T.
Add the oil to the vinegar-Dijon mixture in a thin stream while whisking
constantly. Taste and correct the
seasoning and balance with salt and pepper.
Set aside.
Printable Recipe
Printable Recipe
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