Last Saturday I came home from the farmers'
market with a beautiful bunch of broccolini.
Since there are only two of us...and there was enough broccolini to make
a side dish for four...or even six...I decided to make it the main event of our
evening meal...in a pasta (of course).
It was delicious. And since I
noticed that I haven't posted any pastas yet this year(!), I thought I would
share this one.
Although it still seems new-ish to me, Broccolini has actually been
around for a while now. Still, it is
entirely possible that there are many who have not yet tried it. Botanically it is a cross between broccoli and Chinese
broccoli (sometimes called Chinese kale
since it is a leafy vegetable with insignificant florets). Broccolini has smaller florets and more
slender stalks than broccoli. I find
that it has a flavor that is similar to broccoli but a bit more pungent—sort of
turnip-like, in fact. But since all of
the broccolis, kales and turnips (as well as cabbages) are members of the
Brassica (or mustard) family, the peppery quality is a matter of nuance and
degree. Considering this, Broccolini is relatively mild—some even say sweet—and should
be well received by anyone who likes broccoli.
The slender stalks of broccolini are tender
and cook just as quickly as the florets.
This makes it so that the stalks/spears can be left whole for cooking
and be served as an elegant side vegetable...in much the same way one might serve
asparagus. Broccolini was originally called Aspiration...which probably came from a desire to suggest
this style of serving (not because it is botanically related to asparagus in
any way).
Like broccoli and kale, broccolini is
complimented nicely by garlic, heat and lemon.
So with the addition of a little ricotta to add richness, my pasta practically
made itself. If it happens that you have
never had broccolini, this pasta would be a great first bite. And if you want to try it all on its own,
just prepare as directed and serve without the noodles and cheese.
Rigatoni with Broccolini, Lemon, Garlic & Ricotta
1 bunch broccolini, trimmed of very
thick/tough ends and cut on a long diagonal (about 1/2-inch thick)...florets
halved if very fat (trimmed weight about 6 oz./180 g.)
2 T. olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1 very fat clove garlic, thinly sliced
crosswise (use mandoline)
A generous pinch hot pepper flakes
6 oz./180 g. Rigatoni (or other short,
sturdy, tubular pasta)
2 T. pine nuts, lightly toasted
Zest of 1/2 a lemon
1 to 1 1/2 oz. pecorino, grated medium fine
3 oz. whole milk ricotta
Remove
the ricotta from the refrigerator and spread it on a plate so that it will warm
to room temperature.
Bring
a large pot of well-salted water (about a teaspoon of salt per quart).
Place
2 T. of oil in a medium sauté pan along with the garlic and pepper flakes and
set over medium heat. When the garlic
begins to sizzle, drop the broccolini in the pot of water. Cook for one minute, scoop out and add to the
pan with the oil and garlic (which should be just beginning to turn golden at
the edges...if it begins to color before the broccolini is ready, remove from
heat and drizzle in some of the cooking water to stop the cooking). The oil will sputter and pop when the water
clinging to the florets hits the pan.
This is fine. Continue to cook
over moderate heat while the pasta cooks, stirring occasionally and letting it
sizzle gently and even brown in spots, until cooked to the doneness you
desire. I like it to be tender, but not
mushy. It should still have some
texture. Set aside until the pasta is
done.
As
soon as you remove the broccolini from the pot, drop the pasta. Stir to make sure the pasta isn't sticking to
the bottom of the pan. Cook until the
pasta is al dente. Drain, reserving some
of the cooking liquid. Return the pan of
broccolini to moderate heat and add the pasta.
Scatter the pine nuts and zest over all.
Toss, taste and season with salt and pepper if necessary. If the pasta seems dry, add some of the pasta
water. Add most of the Pecorino and toss
again. Add more pasta water if
necessary. Finish with a drizzle of
oil. Toss again.
To
serve, divide the pasta among to plates and dollop small spoonfuls of ricotta
over each serving. Drizzle with olive
oil, scatter the remaining Pecorino over and serve.
Alternatively,
dollop spoonfuls of the ricotta over the broccolini and pasta while still in
the pan. Drizzle with olive oil and scatter the Pecorino over the top. Serve from the pan. (Do not stir the ricotta in.) Serves 2.
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