Last July I published a recipe for Summer Lasagne. "Summer" because the main ingredient was corn—made into a pesto and also folded into some beautiful market chard. This unusual and tasty lasagne was the serendipitous result of the intersection of an impulse purchase at the grocery store (no-boil noodles) and the bountiful produce of the summer market.
I haven't been to the farmers' market in a while (for a lot
of reasons...but the main one is that the winter market is new and I'm not in
the habit of it yet), but the unforeseen contents of my pantry—an extra pound of baby
spinach (!), a chunk of winter squash...and an unusual and continuous supply of
ricotta (I'm not sure why I keep buying it other than I love it and it is so versatile)—once again provided the inspiration for lasagne. This time I
purchased the no-boil lasagne noodles...along with some mushrooms and Fontina
cheese...with the definite purpose in mind of a Winter Lasagne—with spinach,
butternut squash and mushrooms.
Although it is not always the case, some of the most
delicious meals are the ones I make without a specific "recipe" or a
real plan.... the ones where I just walk
into the kitchen with an idea and start cooking. Such was the case with this lasagne. I had a general idea in mind, but hadn't
bothered to plan too much. When you consider that making lasagne is always a project, this probably wasn't
the wisest course to take....but in retrospect, I'm glad I did it that way.
I am almost never in my kitchen anymore without a camera. This makes it so I can write a post if I particularly like something I have made. Or, it gives me a way of revisiting something I have made if I have forgotten details. On this particular occasion, about the time I started to build my lasagne, I quit taking pictures. I was tired. It was getting dark(er). And most significantly, I was not happy with the way my lasagne was going together: the ricotta/spinach mixture seemed a bit stiff.... I felt like I had underestimated the amount of each of the components (especially the béchamel).... In any case, I was pretty sure I would be going completely back to the drawing board if I ever wanted to make this particular lasagne again.
Then, a couple of things happened. First, I got a break from it. A lasagne takes 40 minutes to an hour to bake
and as I cleaned and righted the kitchen, I began to think less about the work
and more about dinner. Then, I cut into
it...and it sliced beautifully and evenly.
Then.... I tasted it. I was astonished by how delicious and
flavorful it was. I even commented about
it out loud as I simultaneously felt a bit disgruntled that I had stopped
taking pictures. The next day at lunch,
it tasted even better. Of course, I had
to make another...
The second time around was a much better experience. I knew what to expect, so it went together
much more easily. I'm happy to share
that if you organize the succession of your vegetable, cheese and sauce
preparation in a thoughtful way, you will probably be sitting down to dinner
within two hours of the time you start cooking.
(And since you will be able to use part of that time—while the lasagne
bakes—to clean up, it really doesn't seem like an unreasonable amount of time
for a lasagne.)
To make your lasagne preparation experience as stream-lined
as possible, start by cutting and roasting your squash. While the squash roasts, collapse/cook the
spinach and spread it out too cool.
Slice the mushrooms and dice the shallots and sauté while the spinach
cools. Squeeze out the spinach and
mince. At this point your vegetables
should be done. You can start grating
the cheeses while all of this is happening...or wait until the vegetables are
all done and then move on to the cheeses.
(Since you will have your microplane grater/zester out to grate the
Parmesan, use it to grate the clove of garlic directly into the bowl of ricotta
too.) Finally, since this lasagne uses
no-boil noodles (really, a much better product than traditional dried lasagna),
all that is left is to make the béchamel and build the lasagne.
Like the summer lasagne, this one is pretty rich and will serve four to six. I'm certain it could be doubled to serve more. If you want to make sure that you can serve six with just one, you can make a tossed salad—or a simple blanched green vegetable (like green beans or broccoli)—to serve with it. I was perfectly content with just the lasagne—not only is it filling, but the flavor is very satisfying. I found that I preferred to enjoy some fruit afterwards (the Mandarins have been incredible this year).
Like the summer lasagne, this one is pretty rich and will serve four to six. I'm certain it could be doubled to serve more. If you want to make sure that you can serve six with just one, you can make a tossed salad—or a simple blanched green vegetable (like green beans or broccoli)—to serve with it. I was perfectly content with just the lasagne—not only is it filling, but the flavor is very satisfying. I found that I preferred to enjoy some fruit afterwards (the Mandarins have been incredible this year).
And if fruit isn't your favorite thing...or
you would really prefer something a bit more decadent—then a little something
chocolate would I think provide just the right note to round out your
meal.
Spinach Lasagne
with Butternut Squash & Mushrooms
1 to 1 1/4 lb. Butternut squash, peeled,
halved lengthwise, seeded and cut cross-wise into 1/4-inch thick slabs
2 T. olive oil, divided
Salt & freshly ground pepper, to taste
3 1/2 T. butter, divided
8 oz. crimini or white mushrooms, sliced
1/4-inch thick
1 medium shallot (about 1 1/2 oz.), peeled
and minced
1/4 c. dry white wine
1 lb. baby spinach, washed
1 c. (240 g) whole milk ricotta
1 oz. (1/3 c) finely grated Parmesan
1 clove garlic, finely grated with a
microplaner or smashed to a purée with a pinch of salt
Pinch nutmeg
1 1/3 c. whole milk
2 T. flour
6 oz. Fontina or Fontal, coarsely grated
In a large bowl, toss the squash with a
tablespoon or so of olive oil (enough to lightly coat all the squash) and
season with salt and pepper. Spread in a
single layer on a baking sheet
and roast in a 450° oven until tender and caramelized—about 25 to 30 minutes. (Flip the squash over about 2/3 of the way through for more even browning.) Set aside when done.
While the squash roasts, place the spinach
in a large stock pot with just the water clinging to the leaves from washing
(or—if you have purchased a container of triple washed, add about a quarter
inch of water to the pan before adding the spinach). Cover the pot and set over
high heat. When you hear the water begin
to boil and steam, uncover and turn the spinach over and over in the pot (using
tongs) until it has all collapsed. This whole
process should only take a minute or two.
Dump the contents of the pot into a strainer of colander to get rid of
most of the water. Spread the spinach on
a sheet pan and let cool. When cool,
squeeze out the excess water a handful at a time.
Chop the spinach medium fine.
You should have 1 1/4 to 1 1/3 cups loosely packed chopped spinach. Set aside.
Chop the spinach medium fine.
You should have 1 1/4 to 1 1/3 cups loosely packed chopped spinach. Set aside.
While the squash roasts and the spinach
cools, melt a tablespoon of butter with a tablespoon of olive oil in a wide
sauté pan set over moderately high to high heat. When the butter stops sputtering and the foam
subsides a bit, add the mushrooms. Sauté
the mushrooms (tossing or stirring occasionally) until tender and golden and
any liquid released has evaporated. (Season the mushrooms with salt when they
have begun to take on some color.)
Reduce the heat under the mushrooms to medium/medium-low. Push the mushrooms out towards the perimeter
of the pan and add another tablespoon of butter to the center of the pan. When the butter has melted, add the shallots
and a pinch of salt and cook until tender and fragrant...this will just take a
few minutes. Add the wine to the pan,
increase the heat slightly. Allow the
wine to reduce completely to a buttery glaze, scraping the bottom of the pan
occasionally get all of the caramelized mushroom juices. Taste and correct the seasoning. Set aside.
Place the ricotta, parmesan, garlic,
spinach and a pinch of nutmeg in a medium-sized bowl. Mix until well combined, seasoning to taste
with salt and pepper.
Prepare the béchamel: In a small saucepan, bring the
milk to a simmer; keep hot. (Alternatively,
heat the milk in a microwave proof container of some kind.) In another medium saucepan, melt 1 1/2 T. of butter
over medium heat. When the foam
subsides, whisk in the flour. Cook
stirring constantly for a minute or so—the roux will be bubbly and straw
yellow. Remove from the heat and pour in
half of the hot milk, whisking constantly until smooth—it will thicken
immediately. Add the remaining milk. Return to the heat and stir constantly until
the sauce returns to a simmer. Taste and
season as desired with salt and pepper.
When you are ready to build the lasagne, oil a square
2-quart baking dish (an 8 1/2- by 8 1/2-inch Pyrex is perfect) and bring a
shallow pan of water just to the boil and remove from the heat. Arrange these two items...along with
all the other components—on your workspace so that you have easy access to
everything.
Add two of the noodles to the pan of hot water. Spread a couple of tablespoons of béchamel in the bottom of the oiled dish. Lift the noodles out of the pan. (They should not be soft or flexible at this point...you're just giving them a head start by soaking them briefly—less than a minute.) Let the excess water drip back in to the pan and arrange them in a single layer in the prepared baking dish. Add a couple more noodles to the pan of hot water (to soak while you build the first layer). Scatter a third of the mushrooms and a third of the squash over the noodles.
Add two of the noodles to the pan of hot water. Spread a couple of tablespoons of béchamel in the bottom of the oiled dish. Lift the noodles out of the pan. (They should not be soft or flexible at this point...you're just giving them a head start by soaking them briefly—less than a minute.) Let the excess water drip back in to the pan and arrange them in a single layer in the prepared baking dish. Add a couple more noodles to the pan of hot water (to soak while you build the first layer). Scatter a third of the mushrooms and a third of the squash over the noodles.
Daub a third of the ricotta mixture over the vegetables, spreading it out a bit using two forks.
Drizzle a fourth of the remaining béchamel (about 1/3 cup) over the ricotta-spinach mixture (spreading if a big glob goes all in one place). Scatter a quarter of the Fontina (1 1/2 oz.) over all. Beginning with the noodles, repeat this layering two more times.
Finish with two more (soaked) noodles, the remainder of the béchamel (spreading evenly) and a scattering of the remaining Fontina (1 1/2 oz.).
Cover the pan with a piece of aluminum
foil that has been brushed on the underside with olive oil (or sprayed with pan
spray), tenting the foil slightly if possible so that it isn't touching the top
of the lasagne. Bake in a 350°
oven until the cheese on top has just melted—about 25 to 30 minutes. Uncover and continue to bake until the
lasagne is bubbling around the edges and the top is beginning to brown around
the edges...another 10 to 15 minutes. Let
the lasagne rest for 5 to 10 minutes. Cut
with a sharp knife and serve. Serves
4 to 6.
Notes:
- The amounts of mushrooms and squash will seem very skimpy as you are building the lasagne. This is as it should be.
- The ricotta-spinach mixture may seem very stiff (depending on the moisture in your ricotta). Don't worry if it won't spread into an even layer—it is in fact very likely that it will not. Just daub it evenly over the vegetables and flatten it a bit with a fork. It will spread out—or at least give the impression of having spread out—as it bakes.
- I have never made this with frozen spinach, but I imagine that frozen chopped spinach—thawed and squeezed dry and measured to make 1 to 1 1/3 cup would be fine.
- Substitute Low-moisture Mozzarella for the Fontina/Fontal if you like.
- This makes a tall lasagne...so if you double the lasagne, it would be best to go with a 15- by 11-inch pan rather than a 13- by 9-inch.