Over the years, For Love of the Table has turned out to be
a lot of things...some planned, some not.
Always food, cooking and table related...but also covering a wide
ranging array of topics. I have focused on basic techniques...and because I am always learning, I have also covered not-so-basic techniques. I have posted complicated
recipes appropriate for a formal meal (from my private dinner service) or a
weekend project...as well as things that were simply what I happened to be
eating and enjoying at the moment. There
have been many posts for foods so simple they don't really require a
recipe. As for a theme...if you discount
the fact that a preponderance of the posted recipes reflect my personal
addictions to cake and pasta...I think it's fair to say that my blog is almost
always about enjoying the abundance of each season. So this past Christmas when my good friend
Bonnie gave me a handmade calendar (created and drawn by her daughter Johanna) that
celebrated a single fresh food each month, I knew I had not only a lovely
calendar, I also had inspiration for at least one post a month.
For January, Johanna chose blood oranges. What a perfect way to start the year! Blood oranges begin to trickle into the
stores in December, but they don't really hit their stride and peak until
January and February...finally tapering off in March and April. At a time of year when the bright and
cheerful colors of the holidays have abruptly faded into the muted and
sometimes depressing grays of winter, their brilliant red flesh is a welcome
sight. A glass of freshly squeezed blood
orange juice will give the most ordinary breakfast a special feel.
Blood oranges of course taste of orange...but at the same
time seem to have more depth. They can
be very sweet...but also often have a pleasantly tart edge. I think it is this rich, sweet-tart
character...combined with their ruby red coloring...that causes many to say
that they have a raspberry-like flavor. I'm
not sure I would go that far...but they definitely have a "something
more" about them. They are
apparently the most popular of all the orange varieties in their native Italy
and once tasted seem to inspire fervent allegiance. I was surprised when I purchased my first of
the season last week to observe the holiday-weary and rather glassy-eyed clerk at
the checkout suddenly perk up as she rang them through, exclaiming "I
didn't know they were here! I LOVE blood
oranges"...
As noted above, blood oranges make wonderful juice. And they are also beautiful in
desserts...tarts and upside down cakes being two places where they really
shine. But I love them best in
salads. You can use them in any salad where you would
normally use a navel orange: with
fennel...red onions....beets....avocado...olives....arugula....all manner of
endives....pomegranate.....grapefruit and tangerines.... You get the idea. I posted a citrus, avocado and olive salad a
couple of years ago that featured slices of blood orange. If you have never cut an orange into
pinwheels or filets, that particular post includes some basic instructions on
how to do just that.
Today, I wanted to share one of my very favorite salads
from Suzanne Goin's book Sunday Suppers at Lucques. Goin created this salad as a showcase for
the blood orange. This is one of those
recipes that really isn't a recipe. As
she points out, it's more of a tapestry....an artful arrangement of delicious
and beautiful foods on the plate. Her
recipe has a definite Italian feel....whereas my version is more Spanish, featuring
Manchego cheese (instead of Parmesan) and Marcona almonds. You should feel free to alter the specific
ingredients to suit your tastes...and your pantry.
I was so inspired as I flipped through the beautiful
drawings in Johanna's calendar. It is my
hope during the coming months....as I occasionally share a recipe that features
the ingredient she chose to represent a particular month....that you will be
inspired too. Happy New Year.
Blood Oranges, Dates, Manchego & Marcona Almonds
15 Deglet Noor dates (see note)
4 blood oranges
4 oz. chunk Manchego (see note)
2 oz. arugula or other spicy green
Freshly squeezed lemon juice
Extra Virgin Olive oil (see note)
1/2 c. Marcona almonds (see note)
Fleur de Sel
Freshly ground black pepper
Cut the dates in half and remove the pits. If you
like, cut the halves lengthwise.
Slice the stem and blossom ends from the blood
oranges. Place each fruit cut side down
on the cutting board and following the contour of the fruit with your knife,
remove the peel and cottony pith—working from top to bottom, and rotating the
fruit as you go. Slice each orange
thinly into 8 to 10 pinwheels, discarding any seeds that you find. Place the orange slices in a bowl and set
aside.
Place the Manchego, flat side down, on a cutting
board. Using a chef’s knife, shave large
thin slices of cheese from the chunk.
Place the arugula in a bowl and give it a squeeze of
lemon and a light drizzle of olive oil.
Scatter one third of the arugula on a large platter (or divide among
individual plates). Arrange one-third of
the oranges, dates, cheese and nuts.
Scatter another layer of arugula, and continue layering in the same
manner, letting the ingredients intertwine together. Finish by drizzling more olive oil over the
salad and seasoning lightly with fleur de sel, pepper. If you like, drizzle some of the blood orange
juice remaining in the bowl over all.
Serves 4 to 6
Notes:
- If Deglet Noor dates are unavailable, use Medjool. Medjool are larger and softer….so use 8 and cut them in quarters or sixths (lengthwise) rather than in halves or quarters. Medjool dates are easier to cut when they have been refrigerated.
- In the original recipe, Goin uses almond oil. If you have almond oil, use it, otherwise, a nice Extra Virgin olive oil is fine.
- If you don't have Marcona almonds, simply use regular almonds, roasting them yourself. Spread the almonds on a small baking sheet. Place in a preheated 350° oven and bake until slightly darkened and fragrant. Set aside to cool.
(Recipe adapted from Sunday Suppers at Lucques
by Suzanne Goin)
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