There are a lot of things to like about Jon Favreau's movie "Chef". Even if you don't love to cook (or eat), the idea
that it is possible to (re)discover—and pursue—your passion (and at the same
time make a living) is universally appealing.
The movie is also a well-drawn reminder of the value of investing time
in the relationships that in the long run are what give our work and our lives
meaning. But even if the movie as a whole
didn't make for an enjoyable couple of hours, as a cook, seeing the movie—and
the out-take at the end—would be worth it just for the grilled cheese sandwich. Crisp and buttery on the outside...filled
with soft, perfectly melted cheese on the inside...it looked (and sounded)
amazing. It would be interesting to know
how many people went home and made a grilled cheese sandwich after seeing the
movie.
I thought of this sandwich when I was putting together my slate of
recipes for a new apple class. I have
taught apple classes in the past—always focusing primarily on the different
cooking techniques that can be used with apples. For this class, I was more interested in
flavor partners for apples. And what
goes better with apples than cheese? So,
with the movie fresh in my mind, I added a grilled cheese sandwich with
caramelized apples to the syllabus. I
wasn't sure how people would feel about the inclusion of something as
ostensibly mundane as a grilled cheese sandwich in a cooking class. I hoped they would like it. I was not prepared for it to be the hit of
the class. I guess everyone likes a good
grilled cheese sandwich.
As with all simple foods, unfortunately it is easy to make a bad
grilled cheese sandwich. Making a really
good one is all about paying attention to the details: The kind of bread... the choice of cheese... butter....
the temperature of the pan....
butter....
The kind of bread is not something I had thought too much about
before I had to write and test a recipe for a grilled cheese. I keep substantial, artisanal-style loaves
around (I don't remember the last time we had a loaf of commercial sandwich
bread in our kitchen), and as it turns out these are the kinds of breads that
make a good grilled cheese. They have a presence
about them. Consequently, they toast to
a tender—yet substantial—crunch. If your
bread happens to be a bit stale, so much the better. I would even say that it is worth waiting for
the bread to stale a bit before making a grilled cheese. "Older" bread—because it has less
moisture—can absorb butter as it cooks without getting soggy, giving a solid
surface from crust to crust of golden, crunchy toast as opposed to a grilled
cheese that is crisp around the perimeter and a bit soft and squishy towards the
center.
As far as the choice of cheese is concerned, choose a good (real
please), flavorful cheese that melts well (it should soften, not separate as
it's heated). I like Cheddar, Gruyère,
Dubliner, and Gouda-style cheeses.
Cheeses like Fontina, low-moisture Mozzarella and Provolone are also
good options, but not my favorite. These latter cheeses tend to become very
stretchy as they melt...giving me the feeling that I might choke on a large
impenetrable glob of gooey cheese as I try to eat my sandwich. I like cheeses that soften nicely—and have a
bit of stretch...but not so much that I feel the need to set the sandwich down
and use my hands to sever a rope of cheese stretched between the sandwich and
my mouth. But I admit that this is a
personal thing... You should choose the
cheese you like best.
While on the subject of cheese, I should mention that I think you
can have too much of a good thing. Just
as overly stretchy cheeses seem a bit choke-inducing, so I find that too much
cheese causes the same problem. I have
given what I think is a nice range in the recipe below—about 2 to 3 oz. of
cheese for a standard to slightly large slice of bread. Two might seem a bit spare to some and three
is on the outside edge of what I think is just right. Many recipes I have seen recommend four
ounces of cheese per sandwich. This is
way too much for me...but if it's what you like, go for it.
While the first side cooks, butter the side of the sandwich that is now facing you. When the first side is golden and crisp—after 2 or 3 minutes, carefully flip the sandwich over and continue to cook as for the first side...another 2 to 3 minutes. When finished, the bread on both sides should be uniformly golden brown and the cheese should be just melted. Pay attention to the heat. If it is too low, the cheese will be drippy and gooey—possibly even beginning to separate—before the bread is done. If the heat is too high, the cheese will not have a chance to melt. The goal is crisp, golden bread and soft—not liquid/curdled—cheese.
You may have noticed my assumption that you will use butter in your grilled cheese. I suppose you could use olive oil...or possibly bacon fat...(both delicious fats), but butter is the taste I want in a grilled cheese. You will also get better color with butter since the milk solids in the butter brown and caramelize as the sandwich cooks.
A plain grilled cheese...just bread, butter and cheese...is a very fine thing. But cheese is so tasty with so many things, that the desire to shake things up a bit occasionally by adding a flavorful tidbit or two is hard to resist. I think the key when adding things is to use a light hand. Just enough to give flavor and compliment the cheese.... The cheese should always be the star of the show. Also, if you are going to add something, make sure it is arranged in and amongst the grated cheese so the melted cheese can hold the sandwich together. It is disconcerting to have to hold the sandwich together as you eat because there is a solid sheet of something in the center that prevents the cheese from doing its work.
Since the apple, shallot and prosciutto recipe from my recent
class is really the reason for my post, I'm including that recipe. The salty, tangy, and sweet flavors of all of
these ingredients are delicious with the cheese. A mix of Gruyère and sharp white Cheddar is my
favorite choice for this sandwich.
In the summer, I like to add thinly sliced, vine ripened tomatoes
to my grilled cheese sandwich... A little
Dijon, smeared on the inside of the bread, is good with this one. As is some crisp bacon... or a bit of basil... or possibly a smear of pesto.....
Earlier this year...in honor of National Grilled Cheese Sandwich
Day (April 12)....I made one that was filled with Gouda, arugula and
prosciutto.
I didn't know it was grilled
cheese sandwich day until right before lunch, so I had to make do with what I
had on hand. But it was, as I'm sure you
can imagine, delicious. If you start
poking around your refrigerator...or pantry...I'm certain that you'll find a
few items with which to create your own delicious grilled cheese. Truly the possibilities are endless.
Grilled
Cheese with Apples & Prosciutto
1 large shallot (about 2 oz.), trimmed, halved and thinly sliced (to make 1/2 cup)
1/2 t. roughly chopped fresh thyme leaves
1 small to medium flavorful apple (Braeburn, Pink Lady, Jonathan, etc.), peeled, cored and thinly (1/8-inch) sliced)
1 1/2 to 2 t. sugar
4 1/2-inch thick 4- by 6-inch slices (or 6 1/2-inch thick 4- by 4-inch slices) of sourdough or other favorite bread (see note)
Dijon mustard
4 to 6 oz. coarsely grated cheese—I like a mix of Gruyère and sharp white Cheddar
2 thin slices (a scant 1/2 oz. each) prosciutto, trimmed of excess fat and torn into large bite-sized pieces
In a large steel, cast iron or other style of non-stick skillet, melt a tablespoon of butter over medium-high heat. When the foam subsides, add the shallot and thyme with a pinch of salt and sauté until tender and golden—about 3 to 5 minutes. Remove to a plate. Add another tablespoon of butter to the pan. When melted, add the apples and sauté until limp—but still with a bit of texture—and caramelized in spots—about 2 to 3 minutes. Sprinkle the sugar evenly over the apples and continue to cook and toss/stir until the sugar has melted and the apples are uniformly golden—another minute. Scrape the apples onto the plate with the shallots and toss to combine. Let cool.
To build the sandwiches, arrange the slices of bread in pairs on your work surface. Smear all of the slices with a scant amount of Dijon. Divide a third of the cheese among half of the slices. Arrange the prosciutto evenly over the cheese.
Top with another third of the cheese. Evenly arrange the apple-shallot mixture on top of the second layer of cheese.
Finish with a final layer of cheese.
Starting and ending the layers of the filling with cheese--and including a layer in the middle--is important. It helps the sandwich stick together! |
Top each with a slice of bread (Dijon-side down). Smear the tops of the sandwiches with half of the remaining butter (making sure to spread the butter all the way out to the edges).
Heat a steel, cast iron or other non-stick skillet over medium to medium-high heat. When hot, add the sandwiches buttered side down to the pan. There should be a faint, but audible, sizzle when the sandwich hits the pan, if not, increase the heat slightly. Slide the sandwich back and forth to spread the butter out as it melts. Move and rotate the sandwiches and the pan over the heat as necessary to obtain a uniformly golden and crispy slice of fried bread. While the first side cooks, smear the remaining butter on the slice of bread that is facing you. When the first side is golden and crisp—after 2 or 3 minutes, carefully flip the sandwiches over and continue to cook as for the first side...another 2 to 3 minutes. If at any time the pan seems dry, add more butter in small increments.
When finished, the bread on both sides should be uniformly browned and crisp and the cheese should be just melted. If the heat is too low, the cheese will be drippy and gooey before the bread is done and if the heat is too high, the cheese will not have a chance to melt. The goal is crisp, golden bread and soft—not liquid—cheese.
Cut the sandwiches in halves or quarters. Recipe makes 2 large or 3 medium-sized sandwiches....serving 2 to 4 people, depending on appetites.
Note: Choose any bread you prefer. Because Farm-to-Market is the bread that is most available for me, that is what I use. Their sliced loaf-style sourdough makes an excellent sandwich, as do their Rosemary Olive Oil and Semolina rounds.
Printable Recipe
3 comments:
What a great post on a grilled cheese sandwich. You are so right about the type of bread and using the cheese as the glue for the other ingredients. We use a sourdough bread most of the time, but that would not really work with your apple recipe. Olive oil is my favorite and I grill on a cast iron grill pan with some weight pressing down
on the top.
I have never used olive oil...I will have to give it a try! Your method sounds delicious...and very much in the style of an Italian Panini. As for sourdough...I love sourdough in a grilled cheese...and it does actually pair well with the apples as long as the "sour" flavor isn't too strong.
Definitely my favorite grilled cheese sandwich! I've got too many apples right now, and I had forgotten about this recipe (shame on me)! I think this will be dinner tomorrow
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