During my summer vacation this year I had the unexpected...and
totally unplanned...pleasure of a quick twenty-four hour visit in to New York
City. Even though the visit was short,
it really was sweet...it's amazing how
much food you can pack into 24 hours. We
started with a snack at the Rockefeller Center outpost of Bouchon...
sat down for a late dinner at the charming small-plate French bistro Buvette in the West Village and the next day enjoyed a farewell lunch at La Verdure in Mario's Eataly (stopping at the gelato counter on the way out to fortify myself for the train trip home). I was so inspired by the things I got to taste. Hopefully I will have the time in the months to come to share some of that inspiration here. For now though, I thought I would share the delicious salad I made for our dinner the other night...inspired by the roast lamb entrée I enjoyed at Buvette.
The dish as prepared at Buvette featured thin slices of rosy roast leg of lamb. The lamb was served chilled and fanned on Buvette's
signature small plates. It came topped
with a simple salad of roasted red peppers and white beans. The plate was finished with basil pesto—dolloped
and drizzled judiciously over all. It
was exactly the kind of food I love...simple, prepared with care and attention
to detail, and bursting with flavor... Delicious.
At home—because I don't keep chunks of roast leg of lamb on hand—I
re-imagined the dish as an all vegetable plate, replacing the rounds of sliced lamb
with rounds of broiled eggplant. Like
lamb and peppers, eggplant and peppers
have a natural affinity for one another, so this substitution wasn't really a
huge leap. Instead of white beans—which
I only have access to in their dried form—I used some of the fresh pink-eyed
purple hull peas which flood Midwestern and Southern farmers' markets
every summer.
If you have never tried
these kinds of shell beans (often called Southern peas)—and you live in
a state where they grow—you should most definitely give them a try. This salad would be a perfect place to
start. When you buy them, look for pods
that have turned all purple. If the pods
are still greenish—with just a smudge of purple here and there—they were
harvested a bit early and it is a tedious task to get the peas out of the
pod. The mature, purple pods open and
release the peas with much less effort.
As far as all the components of my salad are concerned, I have
written posts in the past that include detailed descriptions and pictures of all of the basic procedures used, so I won't belabor them here. Instead, I'll just provide the links. If you have never broiled eggplant slices, you
can find out how to do it at this post for my favorite summer pizza. If you would prefer to roast (rather than
broil) the eggplant, simply follow the instructions included in the recipe for Late Summer Ragout of Eggplant and Summer Squash.
If you have never roasted and peeled a bell pepper, you can find
instructions in a "basics" post I wrote a few years ago. And finally, you can find my recipe for basil
pesto in a post for one of my favorite summer pastas....Linguine with Potatoes, Green Beans and Pesto. If you don't want
to make pesto, you can leave it off entirely...or substitute some other flavorful
herb-based sauce...salsa verde, for example.
Like its inspiration, my salad was delicious. We liked it so much I made it again before
the week was out. The first time we
enjoyed it accompanied by semolina toasts topped with soft goat cheese. When it made its second appearance, I served
it with room temperature green beans tossed with olives and toasted
walnuts. If you like to have meat with
your evening meal, the shell bean and roasted pepper salad (with or without the
eggplant) would make a pretty fine late summer side dish....perfect alongside fish...chicken...beef..
and (of course) lamb.
Roasted Red Pepper & Fresh Shell
Bean Salad
with Eggplant and Basil Pesto
1 1/3 c. shelled pink-eyed purple hull peas (see note)
1 fat clove garlic, peeled
a sprig or two of winter savory or thyme
a splash of olive oil
1 1/2 lbs. globe eggplant, sliced 1/3-inch thick
Oil for brushing
1 T. Sherry vinegar
1 T. red wine vinegar
1 clove garlic, smashed to a purée with a pinch of salt
salt & pepper to taste
6 T. extra virgin olive oil
1 1/4 lbs. red bell peppers, roasted, peeled, cooled and cut into 3/4-
inch wide strips
3 to 4 T. very finely diced red onion, rinsed under cold running
water (let drain thoroughly...I spread the rinsed onions on a paper towel to
allow them to dry even more)
2 T. finely sliced Italian flat leaf parsley
Place the peas, garlic, herb sprigs and a tablespoon
or so of olive oil in a sauce pan and cover the peas with water by 1 1/2
inches.
Bring to a simmer and cook until the peas are tender—about 30 to 45 minutes. Add salt to taste about half way through the cooking time. Cool and store in their cooking liquid. Drain just before using, reserving some of the cooking liquid for thinning the pesto, if you like.
Bring to a simmer and cook until the peas are tender—about 30 to 45 minutes. Add salt to taste about half way through the cooking time. Cool and store in their cooking liquid. Drain just before using, reserving some of the cooking liquid for thinning the pesto, if you like.
Spread the eggplant on a baking sheet (you may need to work in
batches) and brush on both sides with olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Broil until tender and golden, turning
once. If you have a grill, you can grill the vegetables instead of broiling them.
If the eggplant is not yet fork tender when it is golden brown, stack it four
or five slices deep as you remove it from the baking sheets—this will allow it
to continue cooking. Set aside and let cool.
While
the peas and eggplant cook, prepare the vinaigrette: Place the vinegars in a bowl with the garlic,
along with a good pinch of salt and let sit for 10 minutes or so. Add the oil in a thin stream, whisking
constantly. Taste and correct the seasoning
and balance. Drizzle some of the
vinaigrette (about a tablespoon) over the roasted peppers (seasoning with salt
and pepper to taste) and set the rest aside until ready to make the salad.
To
make the salad, place the beans, marinated peppers, red onion and parsley in a
bowl and toss to combine. Drizzle with
enough of the vinaigrette to coat all of the components generously. Taste and correct the seasoning. The salad may be served immediately as is, or
it may be chilled.
To
plate, arrange the eggplant on a platter (or individual plates) and spoon some
of the vinaigrette over. Drizzle/dollop
some of the pesto sparingly over the dressed eggplant. Mound the pepper and bean salad attractively
over the eggplant, allowing the eggplant to show around the edges of the
platter/plates. Spoon a little more
pesto over the bean salad and serve.
Salad
may be served at room temperature or chilled.
Serves four as a light vegetarian entrée...more as a side dish.
Note: You may use any fresh shell bean or Southern
pea that you prefer for this dish. If
you don't have access to fresh shell beans, canned chickpeas make a delicious substitution. You will need 1
can...drained and rinsed...for this recipe.
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