The March issues of my
food magazines have begun to arrive in the mail. As usual I'm a bit behind in my reading—it
was only toward the end of this week that I finally had a minute to sit down
and look through the January issues
of these same magazines. I'm glad that I
didn't just bypass the January and February issues though in an attempt to be
current...I would have missed out. The
January Bon Appetit in particular was filled with beautiful and inspirational
food. I was especially drawn to an image
of a platter of slow roasted salmon....so vivid I wanted to reach in and pick up a piece with my fingers. I could already taste it.
Slow roasted salmon is
delicious. So moist and succulent that Suzanne Goin compares its texture to
custard. It is also extremely easy to
prepare. If you have never cooked fish
(or don't cook it very often) because you are worried about overcooking it,
this would be a good method to try. As
the article in Bon Appetit emphasizes, it is difficult to overcook fish when
using this slow, gentle, low-heat method.
You don't need any special equipment...or even any special
seasonings. The recipe in Bon Appetit includes citrus, fennel, spices and herbs...but all you really need is olive
oil, salt and pepper. Simply place the
salmon (in one large piece—skinned or not, as you prefer...although I think it's easier
to serve if the skin is removed prior to cooking) in an oiled baking dish,
season well with salt and pepper, drizzle generously with olive oil and place
in a 250° to 275° oven.
Bake until the
salmon flakes when prodded and is still a bit translucent in the center. An instant read thermometer, inserted at the
thickest part of the filet, will read between 120° and 125°. This will take anywhere from 25 to 40
minutes, depending on the size and the thickness of the filet.
Break into large chunks and serve.
Artichokes began arriving
in the stores sometime during the last couple of weeks and I have been looking for a reason to bring
some home. I finally bought a couple yesterday,
knowing they would be delicious with the slow roasted salmon. To prepare them I made a pared down version
of a classic Provençal braise of artichokes called a barigoule. In traditional
versions of this dish, whole turned artichokes are gently simmered in a
flavorful broth made up of thinly sliced aromatic vegetables, white wine, water
and olive oil. The aromatic vegetables
that are used vary a bit from version to version...but not too much. They include onions, leeks, carrots, fennel,
celery and garlic. Thyme, bay, and winter
savory are other traditional flavoring agents.
For my simplified barigoule I
only used onions, carrots, garlic, thyme and bay. And instead of simmering the whole turned
artichokes, I sliced them first. I
varied the stew a bit more by slipping in some halved baby potatoes for the
last 20 minutes or so. I love potatoes
with artichokes....and adding them to the stew made it so I didn't have to
prepare a separate starch to round out our meal.
When I plated the vegetables
and salmon, I spooned some salsa verde over
everything. Although the barigoule and salmon would have been
delicious on their own, the bright and lively flavors of this sauce were the
perfect finishing touch.
Slow Roasted Salmon for Two
2/3 to 3/4 pounds salmon
filet, in one piece (center cut filet, if possible), skin and bones removed
salt & freshly ground
black pepper
about 2 T. olive oil
Drizzle some of the olive
oil in a baking dish that is just large enough to hold the salmon. Season the salmon on both sides with salt and
pepper. Place in the baking dish
(skinned-side down) and drizzle with enough olive oil to lightly coat.
Place the baking dish in a
275° oven and bake until the salmon is cooked to your liking. It should feel springy to the touch, but flake
with a bit of encouragement. If you like
it medium-rare, it should still be slightly translucent in the center. I like mine at about 120°. Start checking at 25 minutes. Use two large spoons to remove large chunks
and serve.
Quick Artichokes Barigoule with Baby Potatoes
2 T. olive oil
1/2 of a medium onion,
thinly sliced
1 medium carrot, peeled
and thinly sliced on a slight angle
1 fat clove of garlic,
peeled and thinly sliced
salt & pepper, to
taste
a sprig of two of fresh
thyme
2 globe artichokes, turned and rubbed with lemon
1/3 c. dry white wine
1 c. water
1 small (or half a large)
bay leaf
1/2 lb. small creamer or
fingerling potatoes, halved lengthwise (the halves should be about 1/2- to
3/4-inch thick)
Warm a tablespoon of olive
oil in a wide sauteuse set over medium heat.
Add the onion and carrot along with a pinch of salt. Sweat, reducing the heat if necessary, until
the vegetables have begun to soften but have not begun to color (the onions
should be tender and translucent)—about 10 to 15 minutes.
Add the garlic and thyme
and cook for a moment or two, or until the garlic is fragrant.
Slice the artichokes
thickly (about 1/3-inch) and add to the pan along with another tablespoon of
olive oil. Season with salt and pepper
and continue to cook until the artichokes begin to sizzle gently.
Add the white wine, bring to a rapid simmer and
reduce by half. Add the water along with
the bay, return to a simmer, cover and simmer gently for 10 minutes.
Uncover the pan and taste
the broth. Add more salt if
necessary. Add the potatoes, nestling
them down into the broth. Cover and
continue to simmer until all the vegetables are tender—another 20 to 30
minutes. Remove the thyme and bay, taste
and correct the seasoning and serve.
To serve the
Salmon and Barigoule together, begin roasting
the salmon when you add the artichokes to the barigoule. While the salmon
and artichokes cook, prepare the salsa verde. (For this particular dish, I prepared it without the anchovy...but it is
fine to leave it in if you want. For the herbs I used all parsley, but artichokes are delicious with basil and mint, so feel free to use some of one or the other of these if you have some on hand.) If
either the salmon or vegetables are done before the other, simply set the
finished item aside in a warm place until the other is finished cooking—this
shouldn't be too long....maybe 10 minutes at the outside. Divide the barigoule between two plates (making sure to get all the delicious
broth) and arrange chunks of the roasted salmon over the vegetables, drizzling
with the pan juices as you do. Spoon
some of the salsa verde over each plate—focusing mostly on the salmon and
drizzling some into the vegetable stew.
Pass more salsa verde separately.
These recipes are written
for two, but they can be increased to serve as many as you like. This would be a beautiful dish to serve
family style in a deep platter or shallow gratin.
6 comments:
This is a wonderful recipe. The salsa verde adds just the perfect touch to the vegetables and salmon. My customer and resident food critic (husband) declared this a "tour de force".
Thank you for letting me know you tried it and liked it!
Paige, this looks divine! I also read the BA article, but yours trumps theirs!
I really wish we could make this together. Perhaps we will!
Thanks for the lovely post.
Thank you Bonnie. This recipe reminded me so much of you...I know you will enjoy it. And yes! I would love to make it with you! I wonder what we should make for dessert....
Even though this post is almost 10 years old, it was wonderful to find it! I also looked for Suzanne Goin's recipe that you reference. She suggests including a pan of water to keep the salmon moist. Since I am just learning how to use a combi steam/convection oven, I used your temperature and 30% steam. The resulting salmon was exactly as you said it would be. Thank you so much for this as salmon is so easy to overcook.
Also delighted to discover that a) you are adding to the blog again and b) offering Zoom classes. Can't wait!
Hi Kathy! I'm so glad you enjoyed this method for salmon. I love it...it is particularly nice with salads and grain pilaf/grain bowl kinds of preparations. I bet the steam oven was perfect.
Yes...I'm trying to post to the blog again. I haven't done as much as I wanted to. Hopefully another post or two this summer. As for Zoom classes...I'm shooting for two a month. I only had one for June (June is always a busy month)...and I saw you had signed up for that class! It will be so nice to have you in class.
Thanks for letting me know you had such a good experience with the slow roasting method,
Paige
Post a Comment